Elisa Flowers for VANDALS' First Issue
Elisa Flowers's makeup spanned five decades for the debut issue of VANDALS, a new biannual photography, fashion, and art magazine developed in Paris.
"I gave all of the contributors free rein to be as creative as possible and [photographer] Michael Donovan wanted to pull from the fifties, sixties, seventies, eighties, and nineties, copying the makeup of each time fairly closely, but also allowing a bit of interpretation," explained production director Lisa Jarvis. Following an in-studio shoot, Donovan printed out the images and wheat-pasted them around Manhattan, capturing them again with his lens. "Elisa understood the brief well and furthered it with her own interpretation. I've received an enormous amount of comments about that editorial, in particular – it's a series that truly embodies the essence of VANDALS," Jarvis added.
For Flowers, the story was an exploration in eyeliner. "I noticed in the 1950s, the ends of the eyeliner swoop up, whereas in the sixties, there's a line in the middle of the lid that swoops down in the outer corner," she noted. "I did a smokey eye for the 1970s; punk meant more graphic lines; the nineties were a bit rounded." She achieved each look with Make Up For Ever Waterproof Cream Eyeliner applied in broad or thin strokes. Though Donovan insisted she didn't have to worry about the skin because the images would ultimately become street art, Flowers still treated it as she would a regular beauty assignment: "I drew a tiny heart next to the model's eye in one shot and covered her eyebrows with concealer. I strived for accuracy."
"I never thought I would work on something like this," Flowers said with a laugh, "but I like participating in art projects. It keeps me going."